Roasting days mark the unofficial beginning of summer radiator replacement season. One can see the season’s early victims on the first wicked hot weekend of the year. There they stand on the side of the road holding up their hoods while their cooling system makes like a steam engine. This mighty 1969 Dodge Polara did not overheat, but did do something equally unacceptable. While ascending the infamous I-5 Grapevine with four people and the air conditioning on full meat locker setting, the Dodge heavy put the 383 big-block into the slightly hot zone. The solution was clear. Full radiator replacement and upgrade.
Why do radiators and cooling systems fail while you’re on your way to a three-day weekend with a car load of people and half a garage worth’s of gear roped onto the roof? Heat and crud. Even the crustiest and most clogged of radiators will work when the outside temperature hovers around freezing with one driver in the car. Problems start when five people, sixty or so degrees, a long uphill grade, and a few hundred pounds of beverages, sangwiches, and other summer supplies are added to the equation. Air conditioning goes on for the first time in months. Game over. The radiator is overwhelmed. The Polara radiator and air conditioner performed admirably until a similar uphill battle. What was good enough for full-size motoring in 1969 had to step up to modern driving standards.
Series of Tubes
The radiator transfers heat from circulating coolant away from the engine. Inside the radiator are the cooling tubes. Attached to the tubes are the cooling fins. If the tubes get clogged with corrosion deposits, the heat stays in the coolant instead of getting wicked away by the air rushing over the cooling fins. Clean tubes provide more surface area for the heat in the coolant to transfer into the surrounding air. Corrosion can also damage or disable water pumps, hoses, thermosensors, and thermostats. Cooling system failure can lead to engine overheating, which can result in costly engine damage. The 17 dollar head gasket will cost 1749 dollars to replace because 7 bucks worth of coolant went bad.
The secret to long radiator life and cooling system efficiency is regular inspection and maintenance. You test the coolant and flush the cooling system every two years right? Check and replace the thermostat? Inspect the cooling system reservoir? How about those old hoses? The heater core is in good shape too? While the coolant itself doesn’t exactly wear out, the chemicals and compounds in the coolant that prevent corrosion do. Given enough time that bright green coolant becomes a corrosive monster. Once corrosion begins all manner of bad things start to happen. Radiator crud can be removed by taking the radiator into a shop and having it rodded out. The radiator shop will tell you if the radiator can be saved or not.
Tools and Equipments
- Service or repair manual
- A new, upgraded, or fixed better-than-new old radiator
- Some wrenches, screwdrivers, and hand tools
- Safety glasses, gloves, and a coolant catch pan
- Ramps or jack and jack stands as needed
- Coolant and distilled water
- New hoses and hose clamps
Step-by-Step Tips for Removing and Replacing a Radiator
Rotten to the Core
A clogged or corroded radiator can look A-OK from the outside while doom lurks within. While replacing a radiator is within the realm of the do-it-yourselfer, the trick is to decide whether to repair, replace, or upgrade. A competent radiator shop can repair or upgrade copper-bronze radiators. The end tanks are separated from the rotten core, and a new core with the same or more rows of tubes is brazed into place. The radiator will be as good or better than new. Modern aluminum and plastic radiators may be more economical to remove and replace or upgrade than repair. The mighty Polara was upgraded with an original OEM California Highway Patrol Polara super-duty radiator with additional and wider tubes composed of seventies Space Age alloys. Keeping this heavy cool will no longer be a problem.
A special thanks to Tom and Elana for letting the Clunkbucket photograph the mighty Polara.
jeremy! says
Yep, had to do this a few weeks ago. Be sure to raise the drain pan up off the ground if the front of the car is on stilts. Otherwise you get a lot of green splash drops all over the place…
Brian Driggs says
‘Tis the season!
I noticed my temp gauge climb one day – from 12 o’clock to 2:30. What followed was a reluctant comedy of sloth and the karma associated therewith. Radiator cap, thermostat, radiator, water pump, radiator hoses, heater hoses… each replaced over the course of its own weekend!
Lesson learned. Cooling system maintenance should be performed fully. If you have to drain the coolant for any reason, this is the time to replace all the little, stupid stuff that will have you reaching for Tools of the Week like the dead blow hammer or wood to repeatedly apply to your head when it fails in rapid succession.
Plus side, mah bucket now runs noticeably cooler than OE – even in 116*F heat (you socal guys don’t know how good you got it) with the AC running full blast on near-meat locker setting (45* from the center vents).
On a related note, the above pictured Dodge is B-A. #hifie
"Sparky" Pete says
The mighty Polaras and thier indomitable 383s! Those dog-dish hubcaps look sweet on that C-body.
Related: So THAT’S what they are supposed to look like under the hood… Huh. Never seen a lot of them parts.
Mad_Science says
Guh.
The SS Country Sedan has run hot while idling as long as I’ve had it. On the road, climbing hills, no problems. Exit…come to a stop…BOOM 210, 220…and beyond (!!!).
The fixes so far: re-cored with copper 3 core unit, added fan shroud, added 6-blade aftermarket fan, idle mix set appropriately rich, complete flush of system until the water coming out was squeaky clean. Pulled and inspected the water pump, and it looks good.
I just installed a ~15% smaller water pump pulley, which should net me a little more air and water flow at idle. Haven’t had a chance to road-test it yet.
The behavior leads me to believe it’s an airflow problem, so the backup waiting in the wings (aka the garage floor) is a junkyard Taurus fan and thermostatic controller from Summit.
LTDScott says
My LTD has a fat aluminum radiator from a Mustang and a Lincoln Mark VIII electric fan. Runs cool as a cucumber!
Mike Bumbeck says
Is it a viscous clutch fan? Clutch fans are good for “free” horsepower, but the clutches go bad.
Mad_Science says
Nope, fan is solid.
Seriously, every obvious thing and several not-so-obvious ones have been addressed.